MAJOR LOSS OF POWER

[phade]

[MARTI]

PHADE

I've gone this far, might as well get half decent gun at least (but don't want to make habit of this if I can avoid it).
I get horrible feeling that any / all work involving diagnostics is going to have to be by myself or not at all.
Thought as last ditch, I would get car towed to another garage (which has a good reputation) - again they spoke about opening the crankcase, alternator, imobiliser etc. They have lots of experience of the older Beetle - but not this one - very little experience of this type in Scotland.
So I've had second thoughts about this one too.

To answer your questions - the VAGCOM cable is the USB type for ordinary laptop so can't make mistake here.
The interface / dongle is connected to a special Mexican adaptor which converts to a 3 pin socket which in turn fits the 3 pin plug in the engine bay.
When ignition is turned on for testing, electricity is getting to the interface since the LED light works & flashes when tested - just getting the message on laptop "Interface not found".

I think, but don't know for sure, that perhaps this is the wrong interface / dongle - intended for cars manufactured more recently (2006 onward???) - not sure. Equipment fitted in this car probably dates back to early 1990s despite 2003 manufacture date.
The software is VAG COM 812 version.

Let me know if you have any thoughts on compatibility issues of the above.

Best regards
MARTI

[phade]

Hi Marti,

I have a quick question. If the laptop can find the cable its self but cannot communicate with the ECU, then have you tried changing the ignition coil ? This is the most common cause of a fault code reader (eg. VAGCOM, VAG 1551, 1552, etc.) not communicating with the ECU. Try that first.

I have also found a few non-hex based serial cables (which definitely works with the 1600i) on eBay (I think you will need those and not the usb cables), which will require a separate USB to RS232 adaptor if your laptop does not have an RS232 port. The nearest eBay seller is this one below, which is apparently based in London:-


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-SERIAL-OBD-2-VW-Audi-Car-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-/270337093148?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3ef158ae1c

You will also need to make your own OBD II to 1600i diagnostics plug adaptor. Alternatively, I could make one up for you for a small fee (cost of my labour + the price of the parts + postage).

Cheers,

Phil

[MARTI]

[phade]

[MARTI]

Hi Marti,

Getting that cable and plugging it into the OBD II to 1600i adaptor should definitely work. I use an earlier version of VAGCOM (3.11n) and I know that definitely works with a VAGCOM RS232 cable (I bought that from Germany via eBay UK).

Cheers,

Phil[/quote]


PHADE

I've ordered the cable in your link - all I need now is suitable software which works with this & an adaptor (with suitable driver software) to convert the serial plug to usb.

I'll let you know when I find one.

Regards
Marti

[phade]

[MARTI]

PHADE

I've ordered the cable in your link - all I need now is suitable software which works with this & an adaptor (with suitable driver software) to convert the serial plug to usb.

I'll let you know when I find one.

Regards
Marti[/quote]

If you could give me your email address then I can email a copy of it to you and save you shelling out even more money ![/quote]


PHADE

Thanks for help - this is my e-mail address - martin.lawrence2@talktalk.net

I will try Maplins for an adaptor to convert the serial to usb.

Best regards
MARTI

[phade]

[MARTI]

Phad

Thanks for help - this is my e-mail address - talktalk.net martin.lawrence2 @

usb I will try Maplins for an adapter to convert the serial to.

Best regards
     MARTI [/ quote]

Hi Marti,

Just sent you an email. When getting the RS232 to USB cable, make sure that you get a well known brand (eg. Belkin, Prolific, etc.) of cable since the cheap RS232 to USB adapters do not always work properly.

Cheers,

Phil [/ quote]

Many thanks Phil.

I will let you know how I get on, once I've received the cable & arranged suitable adaptor.

It will probably be next weekend before I've got the bits together, and be able to try out the software (and ask the stupid questions).

Best regards
Martin

[MonoLeónSerpiente]

Hi Marti and Phade,

I'm a bit confused about what Marti has got in terms of Vagcom cable. If it's one with a serial connection to the laptop and Marti's laptop doesn't have a serial port, as suggested, Maplin has a USB to serial convertor that works. I use it with my KeyCom interface:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=29968
It uses the Prolific chipset and I've had no problems with it.

Hope this helps.

[phade]

[MARTI]

[MonoLeónSerpiente]

Hi Marti, sorry if I missed something, this thread is hard to follow.

Why are you using 812 VagCom software? Surely, if you've got the genuine RossTech interface it will work with the latest version of the software (which is called VCDS Release 908). That's what I'm using with my KeyCom interface, which is a predecessor to the later CAN BUS cable that you have.

Hope you get it sorted soon.

[MARTI]

HI PHADE

Just to keep you informed so far.
I went for the Gunson timing gun you suggested, since the other one was about twice the price - however the distributor may not be the problem?

Thanks for sending me the software & instructions to get it working. It wasn't straightforward to run - since the laptop is fairly new with Windows 7 - it wouldn't accept the program - basically the laptop is useless!

However, I did manage to run this with no problems on a desktop - so computer, screen, keyboard, and lots of wires now reside in the garage (I have to drive 10 miles to send an email now).

Ran Vagcom & the adaptor you suggested from ebay seems to work fine - some progress at least!

Two faults were found in the memory (before I ran the engine). Best if I just quote them:
00522- Engine coolant Temp sensor (G62) 34-10 no malfunction detected - intermittent.
00519 - Intake Manifold pressure sensor (G71) 03-10 - no signal - intermittent.

I decided to erase the fault codes & run the engine till it failed again. At first engine failure still no faults registered. I replaced the oil temp sensor, air temp sensor & engine temp sensor - this made no difference & engine failed again. (Before it splutters to a stop, you can hear engine burping some time before - bit like a missfire in one of the cylinders).

However, Vagcom did eventually register the first fault again i.e. 00522 engine coolant temp sensor. I've looked at the wires & can't see any loose. (The old oil temp sensor that I replaced, looked fine).

I bought a complete engine bay wiring harness, but to be honest, I'm reluctant to replace this as not sure how easy it will be to do & also a car with less than 8000 miles on clock should never require this amount of new parts.

I'm begining to wonder if the ECU if faulty. What do you think? I've got a replacement one of those also - if I need to use it. I originally planned to keep the car for a long time, hence I bought a spare ECU in case I got caught-out in future - but never thought it would actually be used (at least not on this timescale).

Let me know what you think.
Again, thanks for all the help.

MARTI