Ignition transformer 6N0 905 104

[Pegasín]

Hi!

Finally I just found the failure of my engine: the ignition transformer or coil.

But I have a doubt: I bougth a brand new igntion tranformer from Volkswagen OEM, ref. 6N0 905 104. In the "cross reference parts" section of this web, says that this spare part must be open and change the transformer...

I don't understand that. It's means this spare part don't fits in the engine? Or the engine will be run badly with 6N0...?


Thanks!

[Red1600i]

You need this part, it's identical with Golf III and Passat.

Tested

http://cgi.ebay.de/Zuendmodul-Zuendspule-VW-Golf-III-3-Polo-6N-Passat-35i_W0QQitemZ320303659125QQihZ011QQcategoryZ61721QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Pegasín]

yes, exactly is this ignition module I have got one new. The case or frame is different to the original Telefunken.

So, my doubt is if this module fits with any modification in the beetle engine.

Thanks!

[phade]

Hiya Pegasin,

That ignition module will fit your mexican beetle exactly. I had to do this to my mexican beetle in January.

My translation of Manfred's original documentation is slightly out of date since that part has now been superceded with 6N0 905 104 and will fit any Golf 3, Polo 3, Passat 3, etc. The mounting holes and connections are also exactly the same and will fit the mexican beetle without any modifications.

The ignition module its self is available from any VW dealer or any VW parts specialist.

Good luck with your car.

Cheers,

Phil

[Pegasín]

Thanks!

But... the problem still appearing.

The new ingnition transformer fits perfectly but there is a wire in the original "Telefunken" 827 that the new VW OEM don't have got.

This is the "Telefunken" ignition transformer . If you open the back you can see this green wire held by a nut. In the new ignition transformer don`t have this possibility...



...so there is an electric conector free in the engine .

What is this conector? Which function?


OK, the engine starts and run perfectly with teh new VW OEM ignition without the green wire...

But after running a few kilometers, the problems begins. It's the same failure at now. The engine crakles and jolt a few seconds, the idle speed
turns very irregular and finally, the engine stops.

Then, the engine don´t want to start. If I wait for five minutes , the engine starts without problems and runs perfectly... for a time


Now a have a diagnosis kit for VAG-COM, but it didn´t detected the problem!!! No failure detected it said!!!

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[Red1600i]

The green wire is connected to the output of the electronic switch inside the transformer. It can be used for a RPM gauge. The newer transformer has the same connector behind a small frame.

Have you already replaced the relay J176 in your trunk? Dont tell us you dont know this famous relay...

[Pegasín]

Is this relay the famous relay Nr 30 from injection?

The relay 30 is the first thing I replaced

[Red1600i]

30 is the fuel pump relay... not J176. J176 is power supply for the digifant controller. No power, no error message

[Pegasín]

No, fuel pump relay is N80

I replaced relay N30, ref. 165 906 381

I don't know the relay j176 and where is located

[phade]

Hiya Pegasin,

This sounds like that the oil temperature sender is intermittant. Does your car run fine when the engine is cold and then cuts out after the engine has warmed up ?

Unfortunately the oil temperature sender is unique to the mexican beetle, however you can easily get a new oil temperature sender from Manfred or VW Classic Parts Center.

Good luck with your car.

Cheers,

Phil

[Pegasín]

Usually, when the engine is warm... but it isn´t a general rule.

A data: this failure is more frecuently and whorst than the first time (2 months ago). Before, this failure appears occasionally and disapears forwith on the road. Now, the engine stops if it running at idle speed...

VAG-COM didn't detected nothing

[phade]

VAG-COM didn't detect the oil temperature sender in my case either.

The easiest way to check it is to wiggle the plug connected to the engine oil temperature sender. If there is significant movement on the engine oil temperature sender's connections then the engine oil temperature sender is faulty.

Another way to check the engine oil temperature sender is to measure it's resistance (with a mutlimeter) when the engine is stone cold. Next, measure the air intake temperature sender's resistance. They both should be the same. If they aren't, then the engine oil temperature sender (most likely due to vibration) will need to be replaced.

At about 20 degrees C the resistance of both of them should be approx 900 Ohms (from memory).

Good luck with your car.

Cheers,

Phil